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A boat bath is a traditional bath without feet that goes
straight down to the floor or more usually stands on a plinth that is either
glued or bolted to the main part of the bath. A boat bath will have a plug and
overflow in the middle of the bath lengthwise making it a double ended bath,
occasionally boat baths may have a plug hole that is also in the center of the
bath widthways but this is less usual. Boat baths usually rise up slightly at
both ends of the bath and have an edge that curves downwards towards the middle
(lengthwise). Boat baths are usually roll top baths, that means that the edge
of the bath has a profile that approximates to a section from the circumference
of a circle. Bateau baths are a kind of boat bath which has bath feet instead
of a plinth.
Boat Bath Construction Types
Most contemporarily manufactured boat baths are one of four
main construction types: Cast Iron, Stone Cast Resin, Fibreglass and Acrylic
Sheeting. There are good and bad quality baths in each of these categories of
construction. Cast Iron has the advantage of keeping to the traditional
construction materials if that is what you want but is heavy, a down to floor
cast iron boat bath is likely to weigh about 200-250kgs. Stone Cast Baths are
lighter but still heavy, 100-150 kgs, they are very rigid but other than this
have no real advantages over a good quality acrylic or fibreglass bath, stone
cast baths are made from a mixture of powdered mineral and some kind of resin
which may in fact be acrylic so the surface of these baths is often not so
different as people imagine from the surface of an acrylic bath. Fibreglass
baths have a resin and glass fibre body, similar to some car bodies which is
then coated with an acrylic gel to give and acrylic surface. Baths constructed
like this are often more rigid than equivalent acrylic sheet baths but are
still light (40-60kgs). Acrylic sheet baths if sufficiently reinforced can
match the rigidity and quality of fibreglass and gel coat baths but sometimes
large expanses of acrylic sheeting can be more flexible than fibreglass
equivalents.
Fitting Taps to your Boat Bath
Boat bath are usually roll top baths and as such cannot have
taps mounted on the edge of the bath unless they have a tap platform. A tap
platform is an area on the edge of the bath that flattens out so that tap holes
can be drilled in the bath and taps mounted on its edge. Because boat baths are
always double ended baths the tap platform if there is one is invariably in the
center of the bath above the overflow. Where there is no tap platform then you
will have to fit either wall mounted or floor mounted taps. Floor mounted taps
will be mounted on stand pipes, stand pipes cover the pipes carrying water to
the taps usually with chromed piping and are robust enough to support the
weight of the taps. Stand pipes stand in contrast to pipe shrouds (also called
bath legs, but not to be confused with legs that support the bath, these are
entirely different). Pipe shrouds are used when taps are mounted on the edge of
the bath and are intended to provide an decorative cover to the water feeds but
not to support the weight of the taps. Pipe shrouds are usually designed so
that they are extendable and can fit on baths of a variety of heights. Boat
baths are in general relatively high, and if you are fitting pipe shrouds or
standing your taps on stand pipes you should check that they will be of
sufficient height for your bath. As a general rule for standpipes you should
aim to use standpipes that are as high or higher than the part of the bath
against which they will stand. Usually this will mean using 700mm standpipes.
You should also take care if fitting taps on standpipes to ensure that the
reach of the spout will be sufficient to get over the roll top edge of the
bath. If in doubt both with height and reach look for cranked leg taps, a
cranked leg tap has a wiggle in the leg that both pushes the tap higher up and
further forward giving both extra height and reach.
More Information : https://s-bath.gr/

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